At The Five Fields, careful sourcing extends to fish from Cornwall, scallops from Orkney, and Yorkshire lamb. Dishes are simple and playful. ‘Kitchen garden’ is a celebration of own-grown herbs, fruits, flowers and vegetables – and far more than mere salad. ‘Rock pool’ demands a supplement (£8), but is well worth it for the gustatory drama of exquisitely prepared fish and shellfish arriving in stages. Flavour combinations beg to be tried: veal sweetbread with glazed shin meat, gooseberries and chicory, say; or braised beef short rib (a trendy cut) with beetroot, cherries and smoked ricotta. There’s plenty of choice at The Five Fields.

The Five Fields, 8-9 Blacklands Terrace, London SW3 2SP